“WHAT’S HAPPENING

“WHAT’S HAPPENING?”

The University of Tennessee/Agricultural Extension Service

Entomology & Plant Pathology - EPP #60

March 30, 2007

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ABOUT SUBTERRANEAN TERMITES AND MANAGEMENT OPTIONS

by Karen M. Vail

Our first report of a termite swarm this year occurred in the first week of March and the calls continue. Listed below are answers to questions commonly posed by the homeowner as they ponder termite management options.

Q: Why should I be concerned about termites?
A: Subterranean termites, the most destructive wood-feeding insects in Tennessee, feed on cellulose that is usually obtained from wood. Termites are very important because they help recycle dead, fallen trees back into the soil. They do not easily distinguish between a dead pine tree and pine lumber; therefore, their food may be in the form of a dead tree or the wood in a house. They will also feed upon fence posts, paper, books and fabrics of plant origin, as well as living plants such as trees, shrubs, flowers and some crops, although they are more likely to invade woody plants that are in decline. They may chew foam board insulation, and even swimming pool liners and filtration systems.

In the United States, the cost of treating and repairing damage caused by subterranean termites has been estimated to be between 1.2 and five billion dollars a year. Subterranean termite treatment may cost more than $1000 per residence. Besides the expense, winged termites emerging by the thousands inside one's home can be quite traumatic. The thought of termites feeding undetected in your home, for most folks the largest investment of their life, isn’t too settling either.

Q: Why are infestations most often discovered during March - May?

A: In Tennessee, most winged forms of the subterranean termite, or swarmers, emerge from March through May, although many flights may begin as early as February or as late as June in some years. The first swarm reported this year occurred on February 16. On the weekend of March 24 this year, termite swarms were very apparent in Knoxville. One less common species emerges in late July and may continue to emerge through the fall. In heated structures, subterranean termites can emerge any month of the year.

The swarm is a mating dispersal flight that usually contains equal numbers of both male and female winged forms. After flight, they land, break off their wings and seek out a nest site. Subterranean termites usually excavate a burrow under trees, in decaying wood or in the soil. Once the new king and queen find a nest site, they seal themselves in, mate and the queen starts laying eggs.

Very few swarmers emerging outdoors survive to start new colonies. Swarmers that emerge indoors will die in large numbers around windows in their efforts to escape. Swarmers emerging indoors do not eat wood and are best removed with a vacuum cleaner. With a few exceptions, indoor swarmers indicate that a structural infestation is occurring. Swarmers from outdoor infestations may be confused with those from indoor infestations when swarmers fly from the soil through a hole in a window or door screen, or through an open door. Swarmers may fly from infested fire wood stored indoors; however, most of these exceptions are rare.

Q: How will I know if my home is infested?
A: Signs of termite infestations:

1. Winged termites indoors. Finding winged termites indoors almost always indicates a structural infestation that will require treatment. Winged termites may be confused with winged ants because they often have mating flights at the same time of year. Winged termites can be distinguished from winged ants by the termite's straight antennae, broad waist and wings of equal size. (Winged ants have elbowed antennae, a constricted waist(s), and front wings that are longer than the hind wings.) Winged termites are attracted to light and are often found near windows and doors. Sometimes all that remains of the swarm is a pile of wings near a window. Termite swarmers emerging from items, such as tree stumps, woodpiles, and mulch, in the yard may not indicate a structural infestation. But, if winged termites are seen emerging from the base of a foundation wall or adjoining porches and patios, the house may also be infested. If a termite infestation is suspected, contact a pest management professional to conduct an inspection and discuss treatment options.

2. Mud tubes. Other signs of infestation are mud tubes climbing the slab, foundation walls, support piers, sill plates, etc. The mud tubes, formed by worker termites from soil and termite secretions, are typically about the width of a pencil, but may be thicker. As termites travel between their underground colonies and the structure, these shelter tubes protect the termites from drying out and predators. If small, creamy-white worker termites emerge when a mud tube is broken, the infestation is active. However, if no workers emerge from the broken tube, it does not mean the infestation is inactive. Termites may abandon sections of a tube and forage elsewhere in the structure.

3. Wood eaten in layers and along the grain with mud present in layers. Termite-damaged wood is usually hollowed out along the grain with the spring wood fed upon and the harder summer wood left behind. This results in a layered look with bits of dried mud or soil lining the feeding galleries. Damage caused by other wood-destroying organisms does not look like this.

4. Tiny holes in plaster/drywall with soil around edges. Termites may occasionally bore small holes through plaster or drywall and leave bits of soil around the margin of the hole.

5. Rippled or sunken traces behind wall covering. Rippled, puckered or sunken areas behind paint or other wall coverings may indicate termites tunneling beneath the surface.

6. Often no signs are present. Because termites are cryptic or often hidden, infestations can go undetected for years, hidden behind walls, floor coverings, insulation, and other obstructions. This damage goes undetected in exposed wood because the outer surface is usually left intact. Confirmation of infestation often requires a professional. However, even the most experienced inspector can overlook hidden damage or an infestation.

Q: How do I make my house less susceptible to termites?

A. Reduce conducive conditions by:

1. Eliminate wood contact with the ground. Many termite infestations result from the structure's wood coming in direct contact with the ground. Soil-to-wood contact gives termites easy access to food, moisture, and shelter and hidden entry into the building. Keep wood, such as siding, porch steps, door and window frames and other items, at least six inches above ground level. To avoid earth-to wood contact re-grading, pulling soil or mulch away from the foundation, cutting siding bottoms, or supporting steps or posts on a concrete base may be needed. Even pressure-treated wood is not immune to termite attack. Termites may enter pressure-treated wood through cut ends or cracks and may build tunnels over the surface.

2. Don't let moisture accumulate near the foundation. Termites are attracted to moisture and are more likely to recruit to a structure if the soil next to the foundation is consistently moist. Divert water away from the foundation by using properly functioning gutters, down spouts and splash blocks. Repair leaking faucets, water pipes and air conditioning units so water does not accumulate near the structure. Ensure the ground next to the foundation is graded (sloped) so that surface water drains away from the building. Homes with poor drainage may need to have tiles or drainage systems installed. Homes are not growing, they don't need to be watered or mulched. Reduce or eliminate puddling left by lawn sprinklers and irrigation systems.

3. Reduce humidity in crawl spaces. Ventilate the crawl space according to local building codes. Keep vents free of leaves, dirt, debris, and vegetation. Further reduce moisture and humidity in crawl spaces by installing 4-6 ml polyethylene sheeting over about 75 percent of the soil surface. Vents and vapor barriers can be installed by pest management companies.

4. Do not store wood or paper against the foundation or inside the crawl space. Firewood, lumber, cardboard boxes, newspapers, old journals and other cellulose materials provide a convenient source of termite food. If stacked against the inside or outside foundation walls of the house they provide a hidden path into the structure. This entry route could allow termites access into the structure without contacting the termiticide soil barrier. Prevent vines, ivy, and other dense plant material from touching the house. Other wood sources, such as dead stumps, tree roots, old form boards and grade stakes around and beneath the building and porches should be removed.

5. Use mulch sparingly, especially if you already have termites or other conducive conditions. Mulch is used in the landscape for aesthetic reasons and to retain moisture, reduce soil temperature extremes, and to reduce weed growth so plants will grow healthily. Houses however are not growing and do not need to be mulched or watered. Termites tunnel through mulch because of the moisture made available and the insulation against temperature extremes. Mulch is usually of poor nutritional value to termites. If termites are hungry enough though, they'd eat most mulches. Mulch placed against the foundation of the house can give termites access to the structural wood without coming in contact with the soil termiticide barrier. Research from Ohio found that fewer termites were found in stone than in cellulose-based mulches next to the structure. With that said, even crushed stone or pea gravel will retain moisture and can provide the same termiticide-avoiding bridge to the structure. Where mulch is used, it should be applied about 2-3 inches thick, and should never be allowed to contact wood siding or framing of doors or windows. Some recommend a 12-18 inch mulch-free zone next to the structure.

6. Consider treatment by a professional pest management company. Buildings have natural openings, often hidden, through which termites can enter. While the above measures will help make a house less likely to be infested by termites, the best way to prevent infestation is to have a professional treatment. A preventive termite treatment for a home is a sensible choice, especially if the structure has no prior history of treatment. If the building was previously treated by a pest management company, maintaining the warranty by paying the annual renewal fee is a good idea. All complete termite treatments are required to have a retreat warranty which means if termites should re-infest the building, the company will retreat the affected area at no additional charge.

Q: Can I treat the house myself?
A: Most people are trying to protect the largest investment of their life, so why risk damage to the house and environment by a poorly or inappropriately applied treatment by an inexperienced homeowner? Ridding a home of termites requires special skills and a pest management professional is recommended. Knowledge of building construction and termite biology and behavior, and specialized and expensive application equipment (masonry drills, pumps, large-capacity tanks, soil treatment rods and more) and access to professional termiticides are reasons why a pest management professional is needed. Professionals may use specialized detection tools, such as moisture meters, acoustic emissions detectors, microwave tools, thermal imaging, canine termite detectors (termite sniffing dogs), fiber optics and others. "Do-it-yourself" termite baits (see bait comments below) sold at retail stores or bought over the internet will seldom eradicate an existing termite problem (Potter 2004b).

Q: How do I choose a pest control company?
A: One of the most important steps to obtaining control of a termite infestation is procuring the services of a trained and experienced pest control professional. Use the following items as a guide in selecting professional help:

● Ask for referrals from trusted acquaintances who were satisfied with their termite treatment. Call at least three of these pest control companies and ask for price quotes, the chemical to be used and how the company plans to treat your house.

● If a company conducts an inspections, ask for copies of the inspection letter and map. Keep these records.

● Read the contract carefully. Different options are available. Some companies will offer to re-treat if there is a failure, while others may provide an additional damage repair clause. Read both sides of a contract to understand what you are getting.

● An annual renewal fee for inspections is usually offered. It is usually a good idea to contract for this service.

● Study the bids, a description of the work to be done and details of any guarantees and then make your decision.

● Be wary of prices that seem too low. Highly specialized equipment and training is needed to control termites and a low bid may mean low quality.

● In most cases, the materials to be used for termite control are only available to a certified applicator. The certified applicator should posses a certification card and a charter number should be present on a company’s truck to indicate the Tennessee Department of Agriculture has licensed the owner.

Do not feel pressured into signing a contract immediately. Termite damage occurs slowly. The amount of damage caused by taking an additional day, week, or month to make an informed decision is insignificant.

Q: Which treatment methods and products should I use?
A: A very challenging question to which the answer is based on an individual’s concerns and preferences, construction anomalies and other factors specific to each structure. Typically, termite treatments are placed into two categories - liquids and baits. The purpose of soil-applied liquid termiticides is to provide a persistent chemically-treated zone that kills, repels or otherwise prevents ground-dwelling termites from entering buildings. Until fairly recently, many products repelled termites from crossing the barrier rather than killing them. Newer materials such as Termidor (fipronil), Premise and other generics (imidacloprid), and Phantom (chlorfenapyr) are non-repellent or not detected, and termites tunneling into the treatment zone are killed. In general, nonrepellent liquid termiticides are proving very reliable in their ability to resolve termite problems with the first attempt. Both repellent and nonrepellent liquid termiticides can be effective and homeowners should not base their purchasing decision on a product alone.

Baiting is the other broad treatment category. Termite baits consist of paper, cardboard, or other similar cellulose-based products upon which termites can feed, combined with a slow-acting ingredient that can kill termites. Most baits are installed below ground in a plastic station. Aboveground stations can also be placed over active termite mud tubes found indoors. Foraging termites need to find the bait, consume it and share it with their nest mates, all of which results in a gradual decline in termite numbers. Baits may be the only treatment on some properties, while others may combine baiting systems around the structure with liquid applications to areas where termites are observed. Sentricon, Hex-Pro, Exterra, FirstLine, and Advance are examples of commercially-available professional baiting systems.

Termite baiting is a very complex subject. More detailed discussion of the considerations in having your home treated with baits versus liquids is provided in some of the sources listed below. Chemically-concerned homeowners may find the concept of baiting more attractive. Some structures have construction features, such as wells, cisterns, drainage systems, etc., that interfere with conventional soil treatment methods.

Borates can provide another layer of protection when applied to wood in contact with the foundation, support piers and elsewhere. Several borate formulations containing disodium octaborate tetrahydrate are available to treat unfinished wood to deter termites from tunneling over these wood pieces into the structure. The Bora-Care^® label has been recently expanded to allow treatment of other areas too.

No matter which method or product is selected, it's important to have the application made by experienced, certified technicians, with a responsible, licensed pest control firm standing behind them. Termites are best managed with an IPM or integrated approach by reducing conducive conditions in combination with pest control methods listed above.

Q: Does the entire house need to be treated... or can they "spot treat" areas where I see termites?
A: Subterranean termite colonies may contain hundreds of thousands of individuals that forage in many different directions and feed on many sources. Small, localized or "spot" treatments are generally a gamble except in cases of retreatment. Because it is likely that termites will eventually find other points of entry into the structure, most reputable pest control firms will not warranty spot treatments.

Some companies may offer to do a so-called "perimeter" treatment using one of the non-repellent liquid termiticides. Usually, this involves a thorough application to the soil around the entire outside foundation wall of the building, and a spot treatment to the interior infested areas or critical areas such as pipe penetrations, bath traps, etc. The contract should state that this perimeter treatment is an incomplete treatment. I believe Termidor is the only termiticide that lists Post-construction Exterior Perimeter/Localized Interior (EP/LI) on the label.

The Tennessee Department of Agriculture requires a written contract for every termite control job. Retreatment is required if termites are found within one year of a COMPLETE treatment application, provided a termite contract has been issued. This required retreatment does not apply to “perimeter” or incomplete treatments. If “perimeter” treatments are considered, homeowners should inquire whether this incomplete treatment will be accompanied by a warranty or service agreement in case termites return. Before the termite service contract is signed, it should clearly state whether a warranty is given or not. (Service renewal agreements or contracts usually state that if termites return, the company will retreat the affected areas at no additional charge provided the renewal agreement is maintained.) Purchasing any treatment without an ongoing service agreement is a bit of a gamble. The Tennessee Department of Agriculture (TDA) recommends pest management professionals use the TDA form, Disclosure of Modifications in Subterranean Termite Treatments, if they find it necessary to deviate from the standard application prescribed for subterranean termite treatments. This form or one containing the same information should be completed and signed by the applicator and the property owner.

Q: How long will the treatment last?
A: The actual length of control on a given structure will depend on such factors as thoroughness of the application, environmental conditions, and termite density in the area. All new liquid termiticides are required to show that they work for five years before they can become registered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Should termites continue to be a problem the year after treatment, it may be due to termites finding an untreated gap in the chemical barrier.

Q: Have I been cheated if termites continue to infest my house after treatment?
A: Not necessarily. The best treatments performed by even knowledgeable firms may fail at times, if termites find their way through tiny, untreated gaps in the soil. While the intent is to establish a continuous chemical barrier, this is near impossible to achieve in practice. In the case of baits, it may take several months for termites to initially find the bait stations in the soil, and even longer to achieve control. The key to an effective treatment is to hire a reputable pest management company employing experienced, conscientious technicians. Companies will retreat affected area(s) at no additional charge provided the service agreement is purchased and maintained.

Excerpted and modified from:

Potter, M. 2004a. Entfact-639: Termite Baits: A Guide for Homeowners. University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef639.htm

Potter, M. 2004b. It's Termite Season. Kentucky Pest News. University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. March 29,2004 vol. 1014 http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/kpn/pdf/kpn_1014.pdf

Potter, M. 2004c. Termites, pp. 217-316. In A. Mallis S. Hedges [ed. dir.], Handbook of Pest Control, 9^th edition, GIE media, Inc.

Potter, M. 2006. Protect Your Home from Termites. Kentucky Pest News. University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. April 3, 2006 vol 1086: http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/kpn/kpnhome.htm

Vail, K., H. Williams and J. Yanes. 2001. Subterranean Termite Control. The University of Tennessee Agricultural Extension Service. http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/pests/default.asp#home

Vail, K., E.E. Burgess, and C. Pless. 2002. PB 1703 Wood-Destroying Organisms Pesticide Applicator Training Manual Licensing Category: WDO. The University of Tennessee Agricultural Extension Service. http://eppserver.ag.utk.edu/psep/secondlevel/thirdlevel/WDO/WDOindex.htm

INSECTICIDE UPDATES FOR FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

by Frank A. Hale

Bifenthrin (Capture 2EC) by FMC Corporation has a new updated label. Crops added to the label include okra, cilantro, dried beans and peas, leafy brassicas, tuberous and corm vegetables (potato, sweet potato, and other listed crops), and tobacco. Concerning tuberous and corm vegetables, Capture 2EC may be applied as an in-furrow planting time treatment for the control of wireworms, rootworms, and white grubs. Capture 2EC may also be used on these crops as a lay-by treatment for these same pests. It can be used as a foliar spray for control of the adult life stages of flea beetles, wireworms (click beetles), rootworms (cucumber beetles), whitefringed beetles and white grubs (May/June beetles).

Dinotefuran (Safari 20 SG) is a neonicotinoid class insecticide (Group 4A insecticides) by Valent. It is primarily for use on ornamental plants but a new supplemental label has revised information on treatments for field and container grown ornamentals, as well as new labeling for vegetable transplants grown in enclosed structures. On vegetable transplants, Safari 20 SG is labeled for control of aphids, leafminers, mealybugs, thrips (suppression), and whiteflies.

Venom 70 SG is the brand of dinotefuran labeled for outdoor vegetables. In 2007 Commercial Vegetable Disease, Insect and Weed Control guide, PB 1282, Venom 20 SG has been replaced with the Venom 70 SG formulation. Venom 70 SG is being newly recommended in PB 1282 for aphids and whiteflies on cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, squash, and watermelon.

Other new recommendations in PB 1282 include buprofezin (Courier 40 SC) for whiteflies on snap bean, cantaloupe, and tomato. Capture 2E and imidacloprid (Admire 2F, Admire Pro 4.6 F) were added for whiteflies on snap bean and lima bean. Spiromesifen (Oberon 2 SC) was added for whitefly and spider mites on cantaloupe, cucumber, pumpkin, squash, watermelon, eggplant, pepper, and tomato. Acetamiprid (Assail 30 SG) was added for whiteflies on eggplant, pepper, and tomato.

Bifenazate (Acramite 50 WS) was addded to PB 1282 for spider mites on eggplant, pepper, and tomato. Novaluron (Rimon 0.83 EC) was added for beet armyworm, cabbage looper, and diamondback moth caterpillar on broccoli and cabbage.

In the Greenhouse Vegetable Insecticide section of PB 1282, for endosulfan, Phaser has been removed and Thiodan was changed to Thionex. The BT insecticide Ketch DF was replaced with Xentari, Dipel DF, and Crymax. Buprofezin (Talus 70 WSP) was added for whiteflies, mealybugs, and leafhoppers on tomatoes. Chlorfenapyr (Pylon 2 lb/gal L) was added for spider mite, broad mite, cyclamen mite, rust mite, and caterpillars on fruiting vegetables (do not use on tomato varieties with diameters of less than one inch when mature). Bifenazate (Floramite SC) was added for twospotted spider mite and other labeled mites on tomatoes (varieties with fruit greater than 1 inch in diameter when mature). Note that Talus 70 WSP, Pylon 2 L, and Floramite SC are generally thought of as insecticides or miticides labeled for use on ornamentals but they also have these uses on specific vegetables in the greenhouse.

Fenpropathrin (Danitol 2.4 EC Spray) has a new supplemental label for use on bushberries (blueberry, elderberry, gooseberry, huckleberry, Juneberry, currant and others), fruiting vegetables (only had tomatoes on the label prior to this label), and pea (succulent). This latest update (Form 2006-Dan-0012) has plum curculio added for blueberries. Currant has cane borer listed with a 21 day pre-harvest interval (PHI) while the other bushberry crops only have a 3 day PHI.

GRANULATED AMBROSIA BEETLE (FORMERLY CALLED ASIAN AMBROSIA BEETLE)

by Frank A. Hale

The first adult granulated ambrosia beetles were caught in traps baited with ethyl alcohol last Friday (March 23) according to Dr. Jason Oliver at the TSU Nursery Crop Research Station in McMinnville.. Dr. Oliver told me that in a previous study, chestnut trees on the station were attacked by the granulated ambrosia beetles at essentially the same time that the first adults were trapped. We recommend spraying the tree trunk with permethrin (Perm-UP 3.2 EC for the commercial nursery, Astro for the landscape) at the bark beetle rate (2-5 qts per 100 gallons). Dursban can also be used in the commercial nursery at the high ambrosia beetle rate.

Growers and landscape managers should be inspecting trees now for the first signs of feeding damage. They bore straight into the trunk or branches to make brood galleries (cleaned out tunnels to lay their eggs and in which to grow the ambrosial fungi on which they feed). The tree should be sprayed at the first signs of frass tubes poking out of the 1 mm entry holes in the bark. If the trees are sprayed early enough, the beetles will either back out of the holes to try to get away or die going in. Some people will apply bark sprays to specific high value plants or to all of their plants when the first granulated ambrosia beetles are caught in the traps. Others scout and only spray if the first signs of attacks are found. I do not know which approach is best because most landscapes and nurseries are not attacked by this pest on a given year. Usually only one or a few types of plants are attacked at a given location but the plant types that they do attack can sustain considerable mortality.

CARPENTER BEES - "HUMMINGBIRDS" OF THE HYMENOPTERA

by Karen M. Vail, John Skinner and Adam Taylor

Carpenter bees, which belong to the order Hymenoptera, have been very active and residents have been alarmed by these large bees flying near eaves. Activity started around March 11 this year, a few weeks earlier than past few years. Quite often it is the male carpenter bee that is seen patrolling the area or hovering like a hummingbird. They often fly close to your eyes and seem to “stare” at you. Possibly, they respond to the stimulus of the reflection they see from an eye. They could also be attracted by the CO₂ we exhale. Males are unable to sting. The females are not aggressive, but may bite and sting if handled. Males are easily distinguished from females by a large white marking on their “face”. So if you want to impress someone, reach up and grab one of those males hovering in your face.

Carpenter bees are large robust bees and are similar in appearance to bumble bees, except the dorsal (top) surface of the abdomen is almost devoid of hairs and appears shiny and black in the carpenter bee. Also, don’t confuse the white-faced male carpenter bee with a bald-faced hornet which also has a white “face”. You’re most likely to encounter a female bald-faced hornet and she is not forgiving. Catching this female in your hand may cause her to sting, release an alarm pheromone and recruit hundreds of other nest mates - all with stingers.

While carpenter bees are pollinators for several species of plants such as may pop, wisteria, and holly they are considered pests when they bore into wood. It is thought that bare, unpainted, weathered softwoods, especially redwood, cedar, cypress and pine, are preferred by carpenter bees. However, we have observed carpenter bee activity in other wood species, in painted wood and even in preservative-treated wood. We are currently undertaking a research project to better determine the wood species or protectants that are preferred or avoided by carpenter bees. Some common nest sites include eaves, fascia boards, siding, window sills, wooden doors, wooden shake roofs, overhead trim, decks and outdoor furniture. A gallery for brood is excavated and the exit hole is a nearly perfect circular hole about ½" in diameter. These holes often appear as if they were made by a drill bit. The gallery initially extends straight from the opening, but soon makes a right angle turn to go with the grain of the wood. In the gallery the female lays an egg, provisions it with nectar and pollen and seals the cell with chewed wood pulp. Galleries may contain six cells and are four to six inches long on average. However, because the galleries are reused and may be used by more than one bee, gallery lengths of up to 10 feet have been reported. The new adults will appear in late summer.

Other signs of carpenter bees include coarse sawdust the color of fresh cut wood beneath the entry hole. Splatterings of yellow-brown feces and pollen are often found below the entry hole. Burrowing sounds and buzzing may be heard inside the home when the bees are flying or burrowing nearby.

There are several preventive, noninsecticidal controls. Individual bees can be caught with a net and killed or swatted with a badminton racket. Also, a flexible wire can be inserted into the hole after dusk to kill adult and larval bees, but the wire needs to be strong enough to break the wooden cells and flexible enough to make the right angle turn.

Insecticidal dusts such as Tempo 1D (cyfluthrin), DeltaDust (deltamethrin), Bonide Termite & Carpenter Ant Dust (deltamethrin) and Apicide (carbaryl) can be puffed into nest holes in the evening when the carpenter bees are at rest. An insecticidal dust fills the void very well and will not soak into the wood as a liquid might. The bees should have access to the nest for at least 24 hours to allow them to spread the dust through the galleries. The hole is then sealed with a wooden dowel coated with suitable sealants, such as carpenter’s glue or wood putty, to prevent reinfestation, moisture intrusion and wood decay. Painting the wood after the dowel is sealed may prevent woodpeckers from banging against the wood in search of the bees. Carpenter bees overwinter in previously used galleries, so the structure should also be inspected in the fall and any holes that may have formed should be treated and sealed.

Homeowners may not have access to insecticidal dusts labeled for wood treatment and thus may need to apply sprays (Bee/wasp killer aerosols, Ortho Termite and Carpenter Ant Killer [bifenthrin], Bayer Advanced Home Pest Control Indoor and Outdoor Insect Killer ready-to-use pump [cyfluthrin] or others) into the nest opening.

According to Mike Potter, University of Kentucky, a broadcast insecticidal spray onto wood surfaces attracting large numbers of bees may be needed as a deterrent. A broadcast spray of a pyrethroid, Ortho Termite & Carpenter Ant Killer [bifenthrin], Spectracide Bug Stop (lambda-cyhalothrin) or others, is often warranted when carpenter bees are riddling large areas of wood such as siding on a barn, wood shake roofs, decking or similar wood surfaces. Always check the label to ensure areas to be treated are listed. Take precautions to avoid pesticide exposure when applying pesticides where drift or dripping may occur. A broadcast treatment is best accomplished with a pump up or hose end sprayer that targets the wood surfaces that are most favored by the bees (fascia boards, joist ends of redwood decks, etc.). Residual effectiveness of deterrent surface applications is very limited and may last only about 1-3 weeks, so the treatment may need to be repeated. The residual effect may be reduced by rain which may wash the chemical from the boards’ surface.

A few years ago, we were conducting carpenter bee research with the representatives from a local pesticide manufacturer and we needed to exclude the bees from currently occupied galleries in the fascia boards. On a warm sunny day in which we hoped all the bees would be foraging outside of the nest, the gallery openings in fascia board were stapled or nailed closed with a gutter guard. Many bees became trapped behind the guard. Some were killed when attempting to forage, but many others from the next generation (late summer) were also trapped. The gutter guards may not be aesthetically pleasing, but if your fascia can be painted, why not apply the gutter guard and paint over it? No one will know it’s there, except the bees.

Modified and excerpted from:

Potter, M. 2003.Managing Carpenter Bees. KENTUCKY PEST NEWS. Number 982, Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. 04/21/03 http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/kpn/kpnhome.htm

Potter, M. 2006. Carpenter Bees Are Flying. KENTUCKY PEST NEWS. Number 1088, Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. 4/17/06. http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/kpn/kpnhome.htm

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ABOUT INVADING CLOVER MITES

by Karen Vail

What is a clover mite? Clover mites are very small, reddish-brown creatures that appear only as moving dark spots to the naked eye.

Why are they considered pests? Sheer numbers, plus the resulting red-brown stain left behind if they are crushed, make them unwelcome visitors. The red stains are not blood, they are the mite's body pigments. They are not blood feeders and will not harm people or pets, nor will they infest household products. Once inside a home or building they will soon die.

They can be especially abundant in the heavy, succulent growth of well-fertilized lawns. They usually enter a home around windows or doors so they are usually seen crawling along sills or thresholds. The mites can crawl up outside walls and may enter the buildings at upper levels.

How do I reduce their numbers indoors? Clover mites are a temporary nuisance; they appear suddenly and then are gone. A soapy rag or wet sponge can be used to clean mites off of surfaces. Wipe carefully to avoid crushing the mites and causing stains. The crevice tool of a vacuum cleaner may also be used to pick up mites. Non-chemical control should provide sufficient control indoors.

Can I alter conducive conditions to prevent future invasions? There is an increased potential for invading structures when grass extends to the foundation. A bare zone next to the foundation will provide a barrier that will stop many mites and provide a long term solution to persistent problems. Avoid overfertilizing lawns. This creates situations that are ideal for mites to increase to tremendous numbers.

How do I reduce their numbers outdoors? Mites seen on the outside of buildings can be killed with a direct spray of an insecticidal soap. This treatment will not provide any residual control. An insecticidal spray of a synthetic pyrethroid along the outside walls and base of the foundation may provide some relief.

Modified from LAWN MITES By Lee Townsend, Pest News, Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service 2-25-02.

TRAPPING SYSTEM MOTH CATCHES FOR MARCH 29, 2007

by Russ Patrick

There were no moths caught in the traps for this week in either Milan or Jackson locations. There

is a possibility that the dry weather conditions have contributed to delay the emergence of moths.

We will continue to monitor these traps each week and transmit the results to you as we receive

them.

Corn:

Corn is being planted across the state at a rapid pace. If we get some cooler weather and moisture during the next couple of weeks, scouting of the these fields should be made to determine if cutworms become a problem.

Stored Grain:

It is still advisable to aerate your grain bins to keep moisture from building in the bins. The dryer the

grain the less chance we will have insect problems develop. Check these bins at least until you sell

the grain. Aeration is the best method to prevent insect populations from increasing during storage.

PLANT & PEST DIAGNOSTIC HIGHLIGHTS

by Bruce Kauffman

We received 61 samples from March 1 to March 27, 2007 including 12 samples via the UT Distance Diagnostic Web Site.

TOBACCO and FIELD CROPS:

Winter injury due to late seeding on crimson clover.

ORNAMENTAL and TURF:

Entomosporium on photinia; botryosphaeria stem canker on Foster holly and cherry laurel; phomopsis twig blight on azalea; brown spot needle blight of Japanese black pine; seiridium canker of Leyland cypress; phytophthora root disease of boxwood; canker dieback of Japanese holly; black root rot of compacta holly; lichen in pine straw; seasonal yellowing and/or leaf shed of magnolia, loblolly pine, and yew; winter injury of boxwood, Leyland cypress, nandina, Nellie R. Stevens holly, magnolia, cherrylaurel, and pansy; drought effects on eastern white pine, cherrylaurel, hemlock and holly; boron deficiency of vinca and osteospermum; stem rot of osteospermum; and site stress of deodar cedar, English ivy, and cherrylaurel.

TURF:

Anthracnose, cottony (pythium) blight, and rhizoctonia blight of bentgrass; and gaeumannomyces blight (decline) and root knot nematodes on bermudagrass.

FRUIT and VEGETABLES:

Foliar damage due to pesticide interaction on tomato; leaf curling due to ethylene on tomato.

INSECTS and MITES:

Nantucket pine tip moth on loblolly pine; eastern tent caterpillar on cherry; southern red mite on Japanese holly; mealybugs on ponytail palm; and scale on euonymus.

In and around the house:

Assassin bug, Indian meal moth, varied carpet beetle, rice or maize weevil, and phorid flies.

ANIMAL DAMAGE:

Mice in home; meadow voles chewing on loblolly pine, nandina, and holly; and woodpecker damage on viburnum.

TOBACCO BLUE MOLD CONDITIONS

by Darrell Hensley

A slow-moving cold front (week of 25th-31st) in the Ohio Valley /mid-Atlantic states will push south into TN and the Carolinas Thursday the 29th. Rain may move into these areas, continuing in lighter fashion on Thursday. A very sharp cooldown behind the front will be short-lived as the front dissipates on and a high pressure will re-assert itself. Trajectories out of western Cuba are moving WSW Wednesday-28th and Thursday-29th under unfavorable conditions for survivable transport and deposition of blue mold spores exist. Current conditions only present a low risk to tobacco plants in TN, unless wind and weather conditions change for the first week of April.

RODENTICIDES AND LIVESTOCK PRODUCERS

by Darrell Hensley

On January 17, 2007, EPA issued a proposed risk mitigation decision for nine (9) rodenticides: Brodifacoum, Bromadiolone, Bromethalin, Chlorophacinone, Cholecalciferol, Difethialone, Diphacinone, Warfarin and Zinc Phosphide. An EPA summary of the proposal can be found at:

http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/chemicals/rodenticides_fs.htm

Basically, the proposal would require:

1) All products for sale to consumers (homeowners) be marketed only in tamper-proof bait stations with solid bait blocks;

2) All products containing Brodifacoum, Bromadiolone, and Difethialone would be classified as "restricted use" pesticides; and

3) All products would be required to have improved label use instructions.

Based on a recent meeting with the National Pork Producers Council, it appears that many in the livestock industry may not be aware of the proposed changes. Because livestock producers are not large pesticide users, the pork producers believe that the "restricted-use" classification will require a significant number of livestock producers and their employees to become Certified Applicators and begin keeping records.

Could you please make sure that livestock producers in your region are aware of the EPA proposal and the potential burdens it would impose on them? EPA has extended the comment period until May 18, 2007. Comments on the proposal may be submitted electronically or by mail as follows:

ADDRESSES: Submit your comments, identified by docket identification (ID) number EPA-HQ-OPP-2006-0955, by one of the following methods:

* Federal eRulemaking Portal: http://www.regulations.gov. Follow the on-line instructions for submitting comments.

* Mail: Office of Pesticide Programs (OPP) Regulatory Public Docket (7502P), Environmental Protection Agency, 1200 Pennsylvania Ave., NW., Washington, DC 20460-0001.

FACT SHEETS AVAILABLE

by Darrell Hensley

The CropLife Foundation (http://www.croplifefoundation.org/ncenv_factsheet.htm) has several

fact sheets available at their web site. Most of these fact sheets were developed for North Carolina, however they may pertain to Tennessee.

Topics include: Calibrating a Boom Sprayer, Chemigation Safety, Protecting Farm Families from Pesticide Exposure (English and Spanish), A pesticide Mixing and Loading Check List (English and Spanish), Planning Emergency Response to Pesticide Spills (English and Spanish), Using Agricultural

Pesticides Safely (English and Spanish), On-Farm Pesticide Storage and Disposal Assistance, Keeping Your Well Water Safe and Minimizing Pesticide Spray Drift.

FLY CONTROL IN LIVESTOCK FACILITIES

by Gene Burgess

The stable fly and house fly are the major insect pests at confined livestock units. Both species deposit eggs in wet decaying organic matter. This includes spilled livestock feed and manure mixed with soil and moisture. In addition, the house fly will breed in fresh manure.

The stable fly has a piercing-type mouthpart which is used to pierce the skin to obtain a blood meal. House flies do not bite because they have a sponging-type mouthpart, with which they feed on semi-liquid material.

Stable flies reduce weight gains, milk production and feed efficiency – both from their feeding and because of the bunching behavior of the cattle, which may induce or increase heat stress. House flies have not been shown to reduce animal weight gain and feed efficiency, but are known to transmit several animal diseases. Over one hundred different disease organisms have been recovered from house flies and the fly has been implicated in the transmission of 65 of these. Stable flies and house flies are a threat of nuisance lawsuits. Generally odor, dust and flies are cited together as constituting a nuisance by the plaintiffs. The law-suit may seek damages or, perhaps worse, request closing of the livestock facility.

A multimethod management approach to fly control, using a mixture of cultural, biological and chemical control measures adapted to the production system, will always provided the most cost-effective solution.

Reliance on the use of insecticides alone for fly control seldom provides a satisfactory answer. Insecticides are most effective when the fly population is already suppressed with proper manure management methods which minimize fly breeding and encourage populations of fly predators and parasites.

Resistance to insecticides by flies, especially the house fly, is another important factor. Resistance can be delayed or avoided by using insecticides in conjunction with effective cultural and biological measures.

Sanitation is the most important single part of a fly management program. Weather is another important factor. A sound sanitation program is needed to minimize fly breeding sites. This includes manure management, as well as removing wet spilled feed and eliminating wet areas as much as possible. To be effective, sanitation may need to be supplemented with insecticide sprays and baits, and/or biological control agents such as parasitoids (parasitic wasps).

Manure management is important in the reduction of fly breeding areas. Mounds may be built and maintained to provide a dry area for the cattle and drainage for the excess moisture to move from the pens to the drainage system. During wet periods, the wet edges of the mound can be scraped out into the lot in a thin layer to facilitate rapid drying.

The lots also can be dragged periodically which helps maintain a dry surface. The area behind the feeding apron should be scraped at two week intervals and either removed or spread out in the lot for rapid drying. Drainage systems should be maintained with enough slope to move the moisture to the holding ponds rapidly which allows for rapid drying.

Haylage and silage piles may have drainage at the edges. The seepage provides an excellent fly breeding site. Covering this seepage area with black plastic should create enough heat to kill the developing fly larvae.

Water tanks should be surrounded by a concrete apron and equipped with a drain line, to facilitate cleaning without creating a muddy area in the lot. Float valves on waterers should be protected to prevent animals from causing a overflow. Livestock pens usually have enough organic matter present to create a fly breeding area wherever water accumulates.

Feedlots designed or modified to meet the Environmental Protection Agency’s pollution runoff standards can have an additional fly breeding area in the debris basin. The basin should be sloped enough to prevent water from standing and provide quick drying. Solids should be removed regularly to prevent fly breeding.

Several companies sell fly control programs for livestock facilities that are based upon regular releases of tiny wasps that attack and kill fly pupae before the flies emerge. The recommended numbers of wasps (Fly Predators, Fly Eliminators, etc.) to be released is based upon the numbers and types of livestock present. Usually, the wasps are released at 2 to 3 week intervals, beginning before fly season starts and continuing through the summer. Several species of parasitic wasps are sold commercially, often in blends. Muscidifurax zaraptor has been the predominant species collected from house fly pupae and is commonly sold because it is easy to rear. Spalangia nigroaenea works well and has been found in both house fly and stable fly pupae. Wasp releases may be an acceptable supplement for a fly control program when sanitation is very high and weather conditions are dry.

Insecticides should be considered as part of a total management strategy. Various methods of application, such as, area sprays, residual sprays, baits, feed additives or boluses, animal treatments and larvicides may be used.

OTHER UT NEWSLETTERS WITH PEST MANAGEMENT INFORMATION

Fruit Pest News

http://web.utk.edu/~extepp/fpn/fpn.htm

Tennessee Crop and Pest Management Newsletter

http://www.utextension.utk.edu/fieldCrops/cotton/cotton_insects/ipmnewsletters.htm

This and other "What's Happening" issues can be found at attp://web.utk.edu/~extepp/whatshap.htm

Disclaimer Statement

Pesticides recommended in this publication were registered for the prescribed uses when printed. Pesticide regulations

are continuously reviewed. Should registration or a recommended pesticide be canceled, it would

no longer be recommended by the University of Tennessee.

Use of trade or brand names in this publication is for clarity and information; it does not imply approval of the

product to the exclusion of others that may be of similar, suitable composition, nor does it guarantee or

warrant the standard of the product.

Precautionary Statement

To protect people and the environment, pesticides should be used safely. This is everyone’s responsibility,

especially the user. Read and follow label directions carefully before you mix, apply store or dispose of a pesticide. According to laws regulating pesticides, they must be used only as directed by the label.

Persons who do not obey the law will be subject to penalties.

Visit the UT Extension Web site at http://www.utextension.utk.edu

Programs in agriculture and natural resources, 4-H youth development, family and consumer sciences,

and resource development. University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture,

U.S. Department of Agriculture and county governments cooperating.

UT Extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment.

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